Dog Friendly Lake Garda Bars and Restaurants:

Dog Friendly Lake Garda Activities:

Ferry trips across the Lake
Beach!

Our Journey

20 minute direct train from Verona to Desenzano Del Garda
This train can be quite busy as it is a service running between Verona and Milan.
Dog tickets are required in Italy but we didn’t buy one.

DAY 1 - Pasta & Prosecco

We arrived in Desenzano del Garda just after 10 am, our base for the next four days. Situated on the southern shore of Lake Garda, Desenzano is one of the largest towns in the area and a key hub for tourists, thanks to its direct train links to Verona and Milan.

Making our way down the gentle slope into the town centre (dreading the trek back up with our bags later!), we stopped at Ruggeri Caffè & Co, a charming little café bar overlooking Piazza Garibaldi. It was the perfect spot for a coffee and a bite to eat while waiting for our check-in time. The café was simple but welcoming, with friendly staff who greeted Nora with a bowl of water and treats before we even got a menu. After a while, we made our way to our apartment to settle in and, more importantly, to tackle some much-needed laundry!

Desenzano exudes Italian charm with its pedestrianised streets, a small castle perched above the town, and a picturesque old town centred around Piazza Malvezzi and Porto Vecchio. The lakefront is lined with bars, restaurants, and independent boutiques, offering a relaxed yet lively atmosphere.

After a bit of exploring, we took a break with an Aperol Spritz at Caffè San Giuda, enjoying the view over the port. One of our favourite Italian traditions is the complimentary snacks served with drinks- something we first noticed in Verona and wish was more common elsewhere! Meanwhile, Nora was less impressed with the strengthening wind, prompting us to pull out her fajn jumper.

As dinnertime approached, we did a bit of research to avoid the overpriced tourist traps in the main square. We found Hosteria Croce D'Oro on TripAdvisor, a highly rated spot just outside the old town, and managed to snag the last available table.

The restaurant itself was unassuming, with traditional Italian decor, but the food, wine, and service were outstanding, arguably the best meal we had in Italy. As with most restaurants we'd visited, it was incredibly dog-friendly, with several furry companions dining alongside their owners. If you plan to visit, booking ahead is essential, as we saw plenty of people turned away without reservations.

DAY 2 - Sun, Wind & Fire

After throwing another load of washing in, we headed to the beach to soak up some sun. Unfortunately, the formal sunbathing areas where you can rent loungers aren’t dog-friendly, but we found a small beach just north of Spiaggia -"Desenzanino" that allows dogs on leads.

We set up camp on the rocky shoreline, with a small rock revetment behind us. Nora basked in the shade of our umbrella while we enjoyed the sun- for about 15 minutes. Then, out of nowhere, gale-force winds whipped up huge waves, crashing over the rocks and drenching us! Lifeguards soon raised the red flags, and we quickly packed up and moved inland.

Seeking shelter, we stumbled upon Desenzano Lake Village, a posh hotel with a restaurant/bar. We braved the wind to enjoy a coffee on their terrace, relishing the peaceful, crowd-free views over Lake Garda.

After a quick stop at Lidl for post-beach snacks, we refreshed at the apartment before heading out to explore the town’s castle. Unfortunately, we couldn’t enter as they were setting up for an opera concert later that week, but the short walk up to the entrance offered stunning views over the town and lake.

In the evening, we settled in at Dom Café, a small bar slightly off the main square. Each Aperol Spritz came with a generous selection of cured meats and cheese, making dinner unnecessary- much to Nora’s delight, as she collected her "cheese tax."

DAY 3 - Beautiful Beaches & Ancient Towns

We set an early alarm to catch the 9 am ferry from Piazza Malvezzi to Sirmione. Even at that hour, it was busy, so we’d recommend booking tickets online to save time. Don’t be fooled by the relaxed boarding process- conductors check tickets onboard!

Sirmione greets visitors with a lively plaza lined with cafés and shops. Before exploring, we were lured in by a gelato stand with an irresistible display. Yes, we had gelato at 10 am. No regrets.

Our first stop was Castello Scaligero di Sirmione a striking 800-year-old fortress built into the lake. With its high towers and fortified port, it was an impressive sight. From there, we wandered towards Spiaggia del Prete, browsing a few charming independent shops before following the coastal path to the rocky outcrops near Spiaggia Lido delle Bionde.

The water here was breathtakingly clear, shimmering in shades of blue. Navigating the rocks wasn’t easy, so we took an alternative route through Parco Pubblico Tomelleri to the north of Sirmione, where we found the ancient Roman ruins of ‘Grotte di Catullo’ While we didn’t go inside, dogs are allowed in on a lead (though not in the museum).

Nearby, Jamaica Beach offered stunning views and crystal-clear waters. We spent hours perched on the rocks, paddling in the lake, and, of course, sipping Aperol Spritz from the beachside bar.

As the crowds thickened in the afternoon, we made our way back to the port and grabbed a beer while waiting for the ferry. The town had become unbelievably packed, and boarding was chaotic. We were lucky to catch an early ferry back to Desenzano as by late afternoon, queues stretched across the plaza, and people were being turned away.

DAY 4 - City Walls and More Aperol

For our final day, we took a short train ride to Peschiera del Garda, a historic fortress town. Technically, dogs require a ticket and muzzle on Italian trains, but no one batted an eye. Italy’s dog-friendliness never ceases to amaze us!

The old town is about a 10-minute walk from the station, enclosed by ancient city walls and the UNESCO listed fortress. We entered through Porta Verona (Porta Verona a Peschiera del Garda) and climbed to the Voltoni Bridge , which offers gorgeous views over the canal-lined port.

After a leisurely stroll through Peschiera’s colourful backstreets, we found ourselves at Piazza Ferdinando di Savoia, a newly pedestrianised square dominated by an impressive church and a massive former barracks undergoing restoration. For our final Aperol Spritz of the trip, we settled in at Monkey No Ordinary Wine Bar, soaking up the last of the afternoon sun before heading back to Desenzano for one last evening, visiting Hosteria Croce D'Oro again for another incredible meal and the perfect ending to our time in Lake Garda.

Lake Garda exceeded all expectations. Desenzano was the perfect base, offering a blend of history, charm, and accessibility, while Sirmione and Peschiera provided unforgettable day trips. Whether it was discovering hidden beaches, indulging in incredible Italian cuisine, or simply sipping spritzes in the sun, every moment was a dream.

And, of course, Nora gave it her full approval...especially the cheese tax.

Until next time, Garda - next stop, Lake Como!