Dog Friendly Lake Como Bars and Restaurants:

Everywhere we visited was dog-friendly and we didn’t come across anywhere which didn’t allow dogs! However, some of the places we visited and can recommend:

Dog Friendly Lake Como Activities:

Ferry hopping across Lake Como
Bellano Beach
Hiking
Orrido di Bellano

Our Journey

Train from Desenzano to Milan (1 hour) this service is incredibly busy but seat reservations were mandatory and nobody requested a ticket for Nora.
Train from Milan to Bellano (1 hour 30 minutes). Again, this service was incredibly busy up to Varenna (the stop before Bellano, where most people stay) and no one requested a dog ticket. We managed to get seats but many people were standing, so make sure to get to your platform and onto the train early as it is a small regional service and there isn’t much room for dogs to sit at your feet!

DAY 1 - Chasing Trains & Finding Bellano

After trudging back up the hill in Desenzano del Garda to the train station, we caught an early-ish morning train towards Milan! As expected from any major city station, Milan Centrale was chaotic- especially with a dog and two huge rucksacks. So, we plonked ourselves in a corner under the timetable board and waited for our next platform to be announced.

The second leg of our journey was on a much more regional service- less comfortable than the Verona-to-Milan route, but still hundred times better than anything TransPennine Express manages between Leeds and Manchester. One and a half hours later, after passing some breathtaking views over Lake Como, we arrived in the small town of Bellano.

Bellano isn’t the most touristy of towns in comparison to Varenna, Bellaggio, Mennaggio or even Como but we wanted somewhere well-connected, affordable and slightly quieter so it made perfect sense to base ourselves here.

After a five-minute walk from the station to our apartment, we wandered through the drizzle to the small park and stony beach before crossing the pedestrian bridge and strolling along the promenade, looking out across the lake towards Santa Maria Rezzonico. The old town is tiny, with the quintessential Italian back alleys leading to independent shops, bars, restaurants, and churches. Looming behind the town is the abandoned Cantoni Cotton Mill, once powered by the waterfall and gorge of Orrido di Bellano.

With it being September and just out of peak tourist season, the rain and Bellano's general sleepines, the streets were pretty quiet. We grabbed some groceries from the local supermarket and settled in for a quiet night at the apartment.

DAY 2 - Gorges, Grind and The Glamour of Varenna

We woke up to beautiful sunshine and set out early for a hike from Bellano to Varenna via Orrido di Bellano. Entry was €6 per person (free for Nora!), and we ventured onto the metal walkways suspended high above the surging water. The first section isn’t for the faint-hearted, or those afraid of heights. Nora, struggling with the grated footbridges, had to be carried!

The gorge itself is mesmerizing, with water thundering through rock faces sculpted over millions of years. The force of it is intimidating, the sheer scale impossible to capture in photos. As we followed the walkway upward, the ravine widened into a serene pool of crystal-clear water, framed by sunlit rock faces covered in trees. At the far end, a waterfall cascaded down- a prime photo spot.

Climbing out of the gorge, we reached the stone bridge overlooking the water before re-emerging onto cobbled paths leading to the Sentiero del Viandante hiking trail. Guided by alltrails, we immediately started ascending through narrow alleyways, past winding roads, and into forested hills with jaw-dropping glimpses of the lake. The heat, humidity, and steep climbs made for tough going, but small chapels along the route provided much needed water breaks.

Without AllTrails, we’d have been hopelessly lost, like the couple we encountered relying solely on a tourist brochure! After helping them find their way, we continued through the dense forest, navigating near-invisible waymarkers before emerging onto the winding roads above Varenna.

Hungry and exhausted, we collapsed on a lakeside bench at Varenna’s port before heading into the picture-perfect old town. The colourful buildings and steep, layered alleyways were stunning, though we stuck out like sore thumbs in our hiking gear amongst the well-dressed tourists posing for Instagram.

We stumbled upon Lake Bakery, grabbing sandwiches and a cannoli before settling on a small beach below Bar Giardino - Hotel Royal Victoria. Watching the ultra-wealthy step off their private jetties like a scene from James Bond kept us entertained for a while before we wandered back to the main port for a drink.

This was also when Nora was at her peak fussiness of the trip. Up until this point she had eaten the food (kibble) we had been hauling across Europe with us with greed but then she refused it. e caved and bought her some wet food from a local pet shop. With a long walk in the heat behind us, we needed her to eat!

Refreshed after a shower and crisp Peronis on the balcony, we headed to Che Pasta, a busy but brilliant pasta spot. The modern décor was a nice change from the usual rustic trattoria style, and for just £30 (unreal), we indulged in two pasta mains, a bottle of prosecco, and sparkling water- absolute bargain.

DAY 3 - Mosquitos & Mountain Trails

On our third morning in Bellano, we waited out the rain before heading out for another hike- this time between ‘Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime’ and ‘Chiese di San Rocco', using AllTrails again. What started as a gentle lakeside walk quickly turned into another steep ascent, past ancient polenta mills, small hillside communities, and churches overlooking the lake.

We looped back into Bellano past Orrido di Bellano, rewarding ourselves with gelato from Il Gelataio Matto before heading back for a quiet night. The day ended on a slightly sour note when we noticed Nora had been bitten by something and was having an allergic reaction- her eyes were swelling up, and she wouldn’t stop itching. Unfortunately, nowhere was open after 8pm … so we just had to hope for the best overnight.

DAY 4 - Ferry Hopping & Pasta Filled Farewells

Our final full day was all about ferry hopping. First stop: the local pharmacy to grab antihistamines for Nora, whose swelling had thankfully gone down overnight.

Now, a PSA for anyone using the ferry in Bellano:

You can’t buy tickets in advance (only in person, cash only).
The guy working the ticket booth is famously rude (confirmed via Google (check out the reviews)).
Don’t be surprised if ferries are suddenly cancelled with zero explanation.

Eventually, we boarded the fast ferry to Bellagio via Varenna, arriving after 30 minutes. Bellagio is as stunning as expected -winding cobbled streets lined with colourful boutiques and bars, rising up steeply from the lakeside. A municipal park south of the old town provided a welcome escape from the crowds, even in late September, with incredible lake views.

Next up: Menaggio, just a 10-minute ferry ride away. It’s much quieter than Bellagio- still beautiful but a little less polished. After a quick wander through the tiny old town, we grabbed prosecco in the sun before deciding to head back early to avoid ferry chaos.

Back in Bellano, we finished the day at Bellano Bistrot, a cosy lakeside spot, with pizza and a beer before soaking up our last bit of Lake Como magic on the beach.

As the clouds rolled in, we walked through the old town and under the shadow of the huge former Cotton Mill we sat for some Aperol Spritzs at Bellanasco, a small modern wine bar which seemed to be popular with the locals. As with all good bars in Italy they provided with us a mountain of cured meats and cheeses with each Aperol we ordered, the perfect starter before revisiting Che Pasta for our farewell meal in Lake Como.

Bellano was the perfect base- quieter than the more touristy towns but well-connected and full of charm. Como’s ferry system is chaotic, but the hikes, food, and scenery more than made up for it. And as for Nora? She lived her best life, despite a few dramatic moments.

Next Stop? Switzerland!

Any questions about our time at Lake Como? Just drop a comment in at the bottom of this blog and we will try to answer!

Sighthounds Seen...